WanderingTrader

IS ARGENTINA DANGEROUS? THE BEST BUENOS AIRES BARRIOS

Buenos Aires map

Map of Buenos courtesy of

Update: Is Buenos Aires Dangerous? Click here

With my last trip to Argentina many people asked me if it was dangerous and where was the best place to stay.  People outside the travel realm consider South America grouped as one big area and its reputation is not the best.  There have been popular tabloids of kidnappings in Colombia, the “eccentric” new president of Venezuela is always in the news, and the new president of Bolivia has also caused quite a stir.

Remember that you will always hear a few bad experiences when someone travels.

This is because sometimes things happen and other times you don’t do your research correctly and you aren’t smart enough to stay out of trouble (lets face its true sometimes.  But in the end I can tell you that Argentina is “pretty safe”, as long as you mind your surroundings and dont stand out.  Its a big city so take the normal big city precautions and everything should be ok.

You can read about my most dangerous Argentine story here.In order to find the best Buenos Aires accommodation we first have to talk about barrios (neighborhoods in Spanish).  The best barrios in Buenos Aires should be centrally located to all Buenos Aires attractions, be reasonably priced, and be safe.  Being the tenth largest city in the world all the areas of the city are not going to be safe.

Just like any big city we have to understand that there are bad Buenos Aires barrios but for the most part you don’t have to walk around with a security safe like when you’re completing all the things to see in Egypt(specifically when you’re walking in Cairo).  Another thing you have to consider is that there a lot of Americans living there (not to mention other expats).

The most popular places to stay are Palermo, Recoleta, and San Telmo (dont worry they are all safe).

Recoleta

Sign in a park in the Buenos Aires area of Recoleta

This is the trendiest of all Buenos Aires barrios with the upscale hotels lining the streets.  Here you can also find all the upscale stores and boutiques (picture New York Fifth Avenue).  The most exclusive hotels are in this part of the city as well which make it extremely popular.  It’s generally more expensive because of the surrounding areas and also because a lot of expats prefer to live there.  Not the best of locations in terms of Argentina tourist attractions, but there is still is great architecture and things to see in Recoleta.

Palermo

The greenest (Palermo Nuevo) and largest of all Buenos Aires barrios.  Many of the parks were inspired by famous neighborhoods in London and Paris.  This popular Buenos Aires barrio is split into various parts and at times it’s hard to decide in which part you actually want to stay.  Many of the popular bars and clubs that you have heard of about will be in the most chich, Palermo Soho, near the popular Plaza Serrano.  Another very popular area for expats and visitors to stay which make the prices in Palermo higher than in other areas.  The location is very poor being the farthest of all the Buenos Aires barrios.  In some areas you will find it gets baron and desolate at night.

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San Telmo

San Telmo Argentina

A mural in San Telmo – Argentina

Not the trendiest part of town nor the most popular, here you will not find Polo Ralph Lauren stores or massive shopping malls.  What you will find is the true Buenos Aires.  The center of San Telmo is Plaza Dorrego.  It is the 2nd oldest plaza in Buenos Aires second only to the popular Plaza de Mayo.  Of all the Buenos Aires barrios, San Telmo is very centrally located, any tourist attraction is either a brief walk or short cab ride (a 25 min cab ride to Palermo is only $13 bucks as of May 2010).  It is always well lit and there are always people gathering in Plaza Dorrego.  Dont worry about not getting your Starbucks fix everyday because the old cafes lining the streets serve some of the best coffee in the world.

We didn’t include the newest area of Buenos Aires Puerto Madero, but many people don’t look to stay there as it is ridiculously expensive.  You also have the micro centro which is the closer to the center of the city.  But the three listed are the most popular.

Check out our Top 5 section for Argentina tourist attractions and come help us plan our trip around the world!

24 Comments

  1. Interesting post, but why does it have Argentina in the headline? I think Is Buenos Aires safe would be more accurate. Argentina, after all, is the seventh largest country and offers way more than its capital in terms of travel options and unsafe areas 🙂

  2. hey jeff thanks for the comment, thats a very good point. The way I think of is that the majority of people going to visit will be residing in Argentina or at least they will be getting there first. Its the most popular of all destinations would you agree?

  3. Sorry, but it's a little hard to take an article referring to “the eccentric new president of Venezuela” seriously. The man has been in office for 11 years – when does he cease being new?

  4. We felt entirely safe in Buenos Aires, even wandering around lots of the outer barrios. We rented an apartment in Barrio Norte, which is part of Recoleta but is more residential, less touristy and therefore cheaper than the main part of Recoleta and Palermo. I preferred Palermo to San Telmo though. Although it's pretty the restaurants aren't as good (especially for vegetarians) and we found it too full of tourists, especially for the Sunday market.

  5. Palermo & Recoleta are more catered to American tastes. I loved san telmo because it was centralized to everything and you could just hop in a cab to go to Recoleta or Palermo. How long were you there for?

    1. I completely disagree. Palermo, Recoleta and San Telmo are tailored to a very large extent to tourist tastes, not simply that of North Americans. And be mindful of how you toss about the word “American” down here as you are apt to offend locals seeing as we are all part of the Americas and American from the southern tip to northern most regions.

      For people who actually live here, San Telmo is anything but centralized as it is in a corner where it is difficult to take public transportation without having to transfer at least once to get to most interesting areas. Remember, in Argentina slightly more than 24% of the population lives on less than 2 USA dollars a day and cannot afford to simply hop on a taxi every time they want to go somewhere. Likewise, many of the tourists here are trying to make the most of their money while here and it would be ill-advised with that aim in mind to hop on taxis like there was no tomorrow.

  6. I may not be the best judge as I stayed in Buenos Aires only for a few days. The town however struck me as a night town. With its tango shows and many musicians in the street, a lot of Europeans spending months there for the social night life, it looked pretty safe to me.
    And the best argument for that is that one night, I was getting tired and at 2 a.m., I left my friends in Plaza Dorrego in San Telmo and walked to the hotel (which was in the center on Pellegrini it's true). I walked for about half an hour, alone on empty streets with the camera in my hand and felt perfectly safe.

  7. Anca I completely agree, I still kept an eye out just in case because you never know in south America but it was extremely safe when I went and we didn't have any problems at all. being the 10th largest city in the world you still want to have an eye out but i def agree. Thanks for the comment

    1. I see no reason to single out South America. One should always keep an eye out and be aware of surroundings anywhere in the world, particularly in large metro areas as you went on to explain.

      1. You dont have to be as cautious in the United States or in Europe as you have to be in Argentina. I walked alone several times at night when told not to do so by my Argentina friends. South America, Africa, and parts of Asia are much more dangerous than modern western nations. its a fact.

        1. Actually that is your opinion. I feel much safer in Buenos Aires than I have in most USA and Western European cities and do not hesitate to wander around the city at all hours of the night, have since 2006.

          Again, I think it is mainly a point of perception and individual experience. A friend of mine was robbed at gunpoint her first day in Buenos Aires and certainly she has a much different take on things than me as I have not experienced any crime first hand here.

  8. You started out talking about perceptions regarding Latin America in general and you mention “the ‘eccentric’ new president of Venezuela is always in the news, and the new president of Bolivia has also caused quite a stir”.

    First of all, Hugo Chavez has been in power as president of Venezuela since 1999, so I am not sure what you are talking about in conjunction with the “new” president unless you consider being in office nearly 12 years as being new. Eva Morales has been president of Bolivia since 2006 and I hardly consider him to be new either.

    Secondly, sure the president of Bolivia has caused quite a stir, but mainly due to factors unrelated to crime and the perception of safety, factors such as: being the first elected president of Bolivia, being indigenous (I believe the first indigenous president elected in Latin America), his push to redistribute wealth in Bolivia with its gas resources and through land reforms. He is also the titular leader of a movement in Bolivia resisting attempts by the USA to eradicate coca in central Boliva making him the target of a lot of conjecture, and in my opinion media driven propoganda. His position on the matter has been that there is a vast difference between coca and cocaine. Speaking to the BBC on the matter he noted: “I am not a drug trafficker. I am a coca grower. I cultivate coca leaf, which is a natural product. I do not refine (it into) cocaine, and neither cocaine nor drugs have ever been part of the Andean culture.” The General Assembly of the United Nations holds him high regards naming him “World Hero of Mother Earth” in late 2009. With all that in mind, I fail to see any relevant “stir” that is related to crime or safety in Latin America.

  9. As to your commentary on individual barrios, I have a few comments as well.

    In my opinion Recoleta is not the trendiest barrio in town, rather I think Palermo Viejo holds that crown. I also disagree that it is “[n]ot the best of locations in terms of Argentina tourist attractions”. Recoleta is considered a very significant tourist area with strong historic and cultural influences and parks. Recoleta is home to the famous Recoleta Cemetery, the Church of Nuestra Señora del Pilar built in 1732, National Fine Arts Museum or Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, the National Library of Argentina, the Recoleta Cultural Center, the Monastery of the Recollect Fathers, the Palais de Glace a multimedia exhibition center, Carlos Thays Park, Centro Municipal de Exposiciones. There are several tango cabarets there to include the noted Pabellón de las Rosas, on Libertador. The barrio is known for its sculptures, French architecture and lovely green spaces.

    I have to respectfully disagree that Palermo is far from activity and it is simply incorrect to note it is “the farthest of all the Buenos Aires barrios”. Going towards the north, once you depart Palermo there is Belgrano and then Nunez before one departs Capital Federal and if you are talking the metropolitan area, it take over half an hour by train to reach the outskirts of town from the Palermo station.

    While I agree that San Telmo is one of the older parts of the city, it is not necessarily true that one will find “true Buenos Aires” there. For one thing, with nearly 14 million persons and having been established in 1536, Buenos Aires is an incredibly complex city and I do not believe one can define any one characteristic or location as being “true Buenos Aires”. If you are talking about an older and more run down part of town; if you are talking about dimly lit narrow roads and high crime; if you are talking about touristic locations like Plaza Dorrego and lots of tourist driven tango cabarets – then “Yes” San Telmo is the real deal. However, I would not be so quick to sell Buenos Aires so short by saying San Telmo is the “real” BsAs.

    I have to disagree with you regarding Puerto Madero as lots of people in fact stay there with an annual occupancy rate of over 80%.

    Last but not least Microcentro is not the center of the city, rather Caballito is the geographic center of town. However, Microcentro is the business district (the term “centro” in this regard refers to business center and not location).

    I appreciate that you took the time to blog your journey around the globe and I wish you the best. However, one vital role of writing and sharing on blogs is hopefully to give people both meaningful and accurate information and I hope I have helped clear up any confusion. Buenos Aires can be a much different city than one would imagine with only a short term perspective and I have found that during the 4+ years I have lived here that the city has become much different to me along the way.

  10. In my opinion Recoleta is not the trendiest barrio in town, rather I think Palermo Viejo holds that crown. I also disagree that it is “[n]ot the best of locations in terms of Argentina tourist attractions”. Recoleta is considered a very significant tourist area with strong historic and cultural influences and parks. Recoleta is home to the famous Recoleta Cemetery, the Church of Nuestra Señora del Pilar built in 1732, National Fine Arts Museum or Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, the National Library of Argentina, the Recoleta Cultural Center, the Monastery of the Recollect Fathers, the Palais de Glace a multimedia exhibition center, Carlos Thays Park, Centro Municipal de Exposiciones. There are several tango cabarets there to include the noted Pabellón de las Rosas, on Libertador. The barrio is known for its sculptures, French architecture and lovely green spaces.

    I have to respectfully disagree that Palermo is far from activity and it is simply incorrect to note it is “the farthest of all the Buenos Aires barrios”. Going towards the north, once you depart Palermo there is Belgrano and then Nunez before one departs Capital Federal and if you are talking the metropolitan area, it take over half an hour by train to reach the outskirts of town from the Palermo station.

    While I agree that San Telmo is one of the older parts of the city, it is not necessarily true that one will find “true Buenos Aires” there. For one thing, with nearly 14 million persons and having been established in 1536, Buenos Aires is an incredibly complex city and I do not believe one can define any one characteristic or location as being “true Buenos Aires”. If you are talking about an older and more run down part of town; if you are talking about dimly lit narrow roads and high crime; if you are talking about touristic locations like Plaza Dorrego and lots of tourist driven tango cabarets – then “Yes” San Telmo is the real deal. However, I would not be so quick to sell Buenos Aires so short by saying San Telmo is the “real” BsAs.

    I have to disagree with you regarding Puerto Madero as lots of people in fact stay there with an annual occupancy rate of over 80%.

    Last but not least Microcentro is not the center of the city, rather Caballito is the geographic center of town. However, Microcentro is the business district (the term “centro” in this regard refers to business center and not location).

    I appreciate that you took the time to blog your journey around the globe and I wish you the best. However, as someone who has lived here for several years and not simply a few months I thought it pertinent to give you my two cents.

    Enjoy your travels.

  11. I have been to Chicago and Washington DC yes.. their ghettos I would agree with you are dangerous. But Buenos Aires is now dangerous when you walk alone on the street in the middle of the tourist attractions and even the airport. You can’t say that for either DC nor Chicago.

  12. 1. Hi Graham.. you could do BA in a week if you wanted to see all the highlights
    2. All of Buenos Aires is getting quite dangerous but San Telmo is the most touristy of all the barrios. I have heard horror stories from ppl living in any barrio in the city. You just have to be safe. San Telmo is the only place where they have police officers standing on street corners. I wold recommend San Telmo

    Cheers!
    -marcellp

  13. Hello Wandering Trader MARCELIP,
    Well I ahve booked my ONE WAY flight, End of October.
    BARRIOS to saty I have been looking at Palermo Not too sure as there seems to be different Palermos (Soho) Me age 54 Young but do like the night life of an evening, anPPd have been to many places in the world even rough places ‘ maily with the rest of the ships crew.
    You mention about Police in San Telmo. I am still undecided on where to stay PALERMO Soho or San Telmo. Probably stay in a B&B look for something around £40 = $75 US per night. Any Tips. Graham

    1. If you like the nightlife I would highly recommend Palermo Soho! Dont bother with Air B&B thats for overpriced rooms and apts for tourists.. look on craigslist. Most business in BA is done through craigslist

  14. I enjoyed reading the article, I am from Buenos Aires, and I think that the safest barrio is Belgrano(it’s the most expensive though, and you may have to travel a little bit more for tourist attractions). Cañitas is very safe as well, and really calm, it doesn’t have too many buildings so it’s really nice to live in there, but then again it’s quite expensive(not as much as Belgrano).
    I read in some comments above that you were talking about walking alone during night in the city, I think it depends a lot in what barrio are you walking and in what street, if you are walking on an Avenue in either Belgrano, Cañitas or Palermo is one thing, a completely different thing is walking on Avenues or other streets in another barrios, such as Caballito, Almagro, Flores,etc. Though, I’d recommend to always try to walk on Avenues when possible, as they tend to be more illuminated and more people tend to be there aswell. I wouldn’t recommend walking alone during night in the city, as BA is getting more dangerous lately in my opinion, though people say that “Porteños” are paranoid about security, so yeah, it’s just my opinion, just try not to stand out that much. As for me, I’ve never been robbed, and the only times that they tried to robbed me were when I was with my sister. Her, on the contrary, seems to be a magnet for robbers(they tried to robbed her always during daylight, around 2-7pm). I think that it’s all about luck, as in any other huge city!.

    1. Clara I know countless people that were mugged on the streets of Palermo… I think that in Buenos Aires everything is starting to become on limits when it comes to crime. Your are the first person from BA that actually agrees with me.. good to see that someone sees it the right way!

  15. Hi All I lived in caseros BA for about 2 years and I am married to an argentinean woman I have pretty good spanish although evryone knows I am a foreigner. Argentina is a lovely warm country and the people are genarally great but we moved back to the UK because it can be very dangerous kidnappings of anyone thought to have money are commonplace. The red mafia who steal children for body parts operate in BA and the murder rate is high. I belive some weeks one cop a day is killed in BA even resorts like Mar del Plata can be wild and hearing gunshots is something normal. Having said this I have been to some of the rough barrios in La Boca, William Morris and Villa Carlos Jardel without incident. I even went to Furte Apache the nickname for a ghetto in BA with no problems. Its hard to say but corruption rules in South America and the Police can be more problem than criminals. we never used street taxis instead calling a local remis is safer. I used to walk around in shorts vest and flip flops so I did not look well healed and my dark complexion helped me fit in. I love and miss BA for the lifestyle , food, and weather. My relations always comment when they come to the UK that they feel safer and that its strange to see house without security bars.

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