You remember that vacation, the time you visited the place (that is pronounced theeee place, not the place). The (theee again) kind of place that you couldn’t stop yourself from dreaming about until you have actually been there. Then once you are there it’s everything you expected. You sit on the plane or the train thinking about just how spectacular it was and immediately start making plans to return. All because it is the place (you should have the pronunciation down by now) you have always wanted to visit.
Once you arrive home you gander at all your pictures only to reminisce on how fantastic it would be to return. Return once more to experience the dream again. The second time around you are anticipating a dream within a dream because you already realized what that first one feels like. Only the second time around it’s not the same feeling. That feeling that you got the first time you arrived isn’t there. The people are the same along with the gorgeous sites to go along with them. The food is just as delicious and the air still feels just right. But somehow, it’s just not the same.
Everyone has their favorite destinations and as they continue to return to those places the feelings are the same. What could possibly make this different? Sometimes people change and other times places are actually different. Our passions change as we get older and have different priorities in life. Cities get older showing their true age while others keep their charm forever.
I’m sharing this because I’ve returned to Buenos Aires and the charm that was once there has somehow changed. There is more graffiti on the walls when you see the beautiful European architecture. Buenos Aires was once the place to be in the early 20th century when Europeans wanted to flee; they built gorgeous buildings, instilled their traditions, and created an aura commonly being dubbed the Paris of the South. Currently you can see the age of the city through its walls and sidewalks. While not the top choice of immigrants, it is still a very popular destination. I alone have met over 10 people that have moved to the city and created successful business.
While still beautiful and holding parts of its European charm, things are not the same in Buenos Aires. There is more graffiti on the walls, a lot more than when I visited in May of 2010, and the true age of the city is seeping through the cracks in the sidewalks and the crumbling corners of buildings. As a finance major I can tell you that Argentina is currently living on its reserves. Once the country runs out of its reserves it’s going to have a hard time staying afloat. At the Casa Rosada (Argentina’s version of the White House) there are barriers lining the area. Not just in front of the building but also lining the sides of the popular plaza.
There are significantly more than I previously saw when I visited Buenos Aires on holiday. May I remind you that there is a medal barrier and gates protecting the beautiful Casa Rosada already. These new barriers couldn’t be to stop thieves or graffiti since they already have those gates in place. I sat down for a moment to admire the beautiful 60 degree weather to think about this. What did I come up with? Crowd Control, the government can easily seal off access to the popular plaza with the new gates.
While still not that dangerous (notice the word that), you now need to have an extra bit of caution when going to the city. When arriving at the airport they have two people, not just one, handing out pamphlets letting you know to be careful about getting into unlicensed cabs. They also have a barrier after you get out of the airport terminal keeping everyone behind the thick glass. If you are planning on going to Buenos Aires I would highly recommend that you visit soon.
I’m afraid that things are beginning to change and soon it may not be as safe to visit. These changes may not come for another 6 months or maybe even a year as they are very gradual day to day changes. But I can notice the significant difference in the short time that I have been away (3.5 months). It’s a gorgeous city that I think everyone should experience and enjoy. I was able to find a great apartment as I now will be living in Buenos Aires for a period of time. If you are planning to visit the city I would recommend do it sooner than later because I am afraid things are not going to get better in the Paris of the South.
Interesting however I would have to disagree that BA has changed significantly in the past 3.5 months. In the past 3.5 years, certainly. Most people see the city very superficially their first visit, and then their second start to truly realize that it is not like Paris or any other city whose population is largely ‘wealthy’. Argentina is not a fully-developed country and it never was. The city has not changed so much in a few months. Your perception of what it was has.
Wow, I get SUCH a different vibe from BA when I'm there…interesting to hear a different perspective. We can talk about this more over Malbec in October. 😉
I would def have to agree with you… but this time around I've noticed thing around the city. it may be that I am seeing more now since I have already been there. There are certain things I have observed as i walk around. they never had as many riot fences nor did they have a glass barrier when you get out of the terminal at the airport. One of the biggest things would have to be the papers they handed out saying to be cautious about the taxis. I didn't see any of that last time I came. Would you agree that it would be best to visit the city sooner rather than later?
Unfortunate and somewhat chilling take, especially considering I'm planning on coming in November. However, cities rise and fall as you point out. The best of the best come back swinging, and I think BA has a reputation as a fighter in this category.
I dont think that will change that much from here to November but I did happen to meet up with a friend last nite and asked him if things have changed. I didn't say what I thought as I wanted to get his unbiased opinion. He admitted that things were changing and that you could see the insecurity on ppl's faces when you walk by. At that point I asked him if he thought that things were getting bad to which he quickly replied “they aren't getting much better”. He is from Honduras where you dont walk on the street by yourself. So its not like he is American and is afraid of a like that.. he is use to danger in the city.
Interesting observations. My husband and I spent two months in Buenos Aires at the beginning of the year. Several of the locals I spoke with talked about times being really tough with inflation going through the roof but the government wouldn't officially acknowledge it because that meant raising benefits (which it can't ignore). One woman in particular mentioned the rise in homeless people recently.
My grandmother was born in Buenos Aires but left in her early 20s. She returned a couple of years ago for a visit and was surprised at what she saw in the disrepair, graffiti and general maintenance of things. It's hard to keep things up over time, but I hope the physical disrepair is not necessarily a representative of where things are going for the country and its people. They are resilient, but no one wants another crisis like in 2000.
That's too bad… I can't believe it's changed that much- just since your last visit in May! I really want to visit Buenos Aires, so I will have to push it closer to the top of that list it seems. Thanks!
Hey Jade I still think that you have plenty of time. I would try to go as soon as possible because I really think that things will change. If you want to head to el Tigre or Cordoba I found some good contacts and great places to stay! Any idea of when you are planning on going?
They are a very proud ppl but I'm afraid its only a matter of time until their reserves run out. Their lifeline at the moment is their foreign exchange reserves and as the global economy is not recovering as soon as everyone thought it would they are going to run into a big problem when they run out. I think its more a toleration of letting things get progressively worse and we all know how hard it is to get back to the good times once things have gone bad.
There are places like singapore that dont even allow you to chew gum because they know where it will end up. Its still a very charming city and I enjoy discovering new pieces of it everyday. I wanted to share my thoughts because it really is a great city to visit and I want everyone to enjoy it before its too late. Thanks for the comment audrey!
A close friend of my best friend’s family was kidnapped and killed in Buenos Aires and my friend’s brother (An Argentine living in Buenos Aires) was a victim of an attempted kidnapping. In addition to that you have to be careful as I can give you countless events where Americans where targeted late at night, mugged and robbed. Its not like you cant go out or go out at night but you have to be aware of your surroundings when you are around Buenos Aires, especially night.
Well I agree that any city in Latin America can be dangerous and BA used to be one of the better ones. Sad fact is, and hard to ignore, is that I had a friend visit their a few months ago. While waiting at a bus stop two guys ran passed, grabbed her purse and took off. Funny thing though, she had just bought a bottle of wine with the last of her money (minus the bus fare) and didn’t let go of the purse that was on her shoulder. She’s fighting with the guy and trying to smack him in the head with the wine bottle, while her brother (they are Americans) was chasing the other guy. Her brother caught him and knocked him to the ground but by then the guy who had the purse broke free of her and pushed him over his friend, the brother was on-top of him going to town with a beat down. They got the purse in the end with nothing much in it but i guess what was shocking was that it happened in front of many people (was dark but early evening) at a crowded bus stop.
I know if that happened in Medellin, Colombia other people would have chased them down to. Seen that happen several times here and was surprised that Colombians would do that. I mean i seen them go nuts on a guy who took a bag from a lady. About 5 guys caught him and when the cops showed up he was a bloody mess!
I think your article was fair and no way says that BA should be avoided but to merely not to let your guard down when out (esp at night). I know some people think after visiting Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia, that when they get to BA it will be a lot safer… it’s a reality check and a false security is a travelers worse enemy.
I’ve been in and out of BA as a child several times and most recently had lived there for four months while volunteering at the villa’s. Through the years it actually has improved. If you were to ask any Argentine though, they will always complain how everything is a mess in their country and yet they are still high in pride of where they are from. Argentina has grown quick out of its mess. The graffiti you mentioned has been an on going issue and continues to get worse. I love a good art work but most of the graffiti is artless crap. Many of graffiti’s though send out the message of what many of the Argentine think.
Michael it was pretty bad in 2001 I would have to agree with you, things have gotten much better since then. I have been able to see the difference with more than just graffiti since I have been there thats why chose to live in Buenos Aires first before I finished the rest of S. America. Thanks for the comment!
Buenos Aires use to be considered the Paris of the south.. a world class destination that many Europeans and even Americans wanted to travel to. Things are getting progressively worse as the economy continues to decline, strikes are becoming a monthly event, and the crime is continuing to rise. It was once a safe place and things are getting much more dangerous.. I have family of friends that have been living there their whole lives that can state the same.
ESPECTACULAR PIBE! GREAT SITE MAN! I just can’t stop reading! I decided to leave a comment on this article cause I want to give you a message of hope, Buenos Aires is changing, well it’s more like Argentina is changing, and it’s changing for good man. I see you wrote this back in some hard and dangerous days, around Kirchner’s death, when the media and all of the political structure created an apocalyptic scenario. Today people’s economy is recovering, we’re having records on turism, we are making stuff and goods again like in the good ol’days. Our “presidentette” is doing great, all it’s going really good, we’re in the way to recover from 20 years of free falling. So, to all the travelers of the world come and take a look at our small continent down here! From the new world wonder tropical Iguazu falls, going through our old belle epoque ginourmous city, snowy mountains and glaciers to the end of the world and the Antarctic continent! Thanks for the time you put in doing these articles about our loved country man! Greetings from Buenos Aires, best city in the friggin world! lol!
Gerardo I actually wrote this roughly 7 months ago. To be completely honest with you , as a finance and business major the worst thing that the Argentine people could have done is vote Kirchner in again. I think that the Argentinean economy is going to get worse and the crime in the city worse as well. I do think that Buenos Aires is a fantastic city but it will get worse over time unfortunately
Thanks for the reply Marcello! Do you really think that about Cristina Kirchner? WOW! Things looks so different from here man! haha! I see you’re a trader! I hope it’s not too much to ask your opinion about a couple o things about our economy? May I?
When the Kirchner administration took the goverment, our country was broke with a debt of U$S130.000.000.000, the lands of the rural sector were being taken by the banks, we had no industry, and the unemployment was at 24%. Today the unemployment went to 7%, Kirchner negotiated a 70% off the total debt, now our debt equals to 30% of our total national income, in 2004 the debt went over 150% of our income. For the first time in our history we have “some” money reserves U$S 50.000.000.000 which is another historical record to us. But the important thing is that this government did a huge investment in the farming sector, they gave loans to the farmers so they could keep their lands. Today we are having records of profits and Cristina already started a program to increase the food production in a combined program with Brasil.
Sorry to burden you with all this stuff, there’s more, but my question is: what do you think about the commodities market in the future? Because this government has invested an amazing ammount of money in the sector of biotechnology and farm machinery, right now we are competing in agricultural machinery quality along with USA and Germany. The thing is right now we’re living on the money we earn selling all this food at high prices, but some say commoditties will drop eventually. BUT, others say that commoditties are the new bull market for the next decades due to the collapse of the financial market. Lots of big names like Jim Rogers are saying that the stock and bonds markets are done, that the future it’s gona be on the real economy till the financial liquidity get back to the global economy.
I mean, we’re beting all our money and resources to the commoditties sector, we’re making huge ammounts of money, we’re opening again all of our factories, we are producing satellites, phones, computers, fridges, LED TVs, Motorcicles, our own fighter jets, a big icebreaker we bought in finland 20y ago that went on flames we are rebuilding it in our own ports, we launch a couple of submarines recently. Cristina started a new nuclear reactor, and announced a new one in the works, also she was in the opening of an eolic field in patagonia, and a factory right there is making more of these huge eolic towers. WE ARE SPENDING A LOT OF MONEY DUDE, please tell me this woman is not making a big mistake about the future of food!!! LOL!!!
No offense but where are you getting your information from? Inflation in your country is over 30% aside from what the government touts as only 7 or 8. I lived in Argentina and saw prices change every week. The have read articles after articles that your country is low on reserves, not have a record high of them. Cristina isn’t the person that put your country on the right track it was her husband that died, once she took over the country she has maintained the same policies as her husband and while some of the economy as grown it hasn’t shown on the bottom end.
Marcello thank you so much for reading all that man! You’re awesome! haha! Ok, that info are just basic structural politics of this government, about the decrease in our debt and unemployment through these last years there’s lots of articles in the web. Specially now with all of what happened on Iceland, Ireland, spain, Greece and now Italy, guys like Krugman or Stiglitz are calling those nation to take a look at how Argentina managed to recover from the same economy disaster. About our money reserves, I now that 50K million bucks are not much for a developed country but for a third world country like us is like a miracle, seriously man, in 04′ we were searching food in the garbage lol! No kidding! We are using those reserves to keep a cheap dollar and these guys are doing a great job, believe me.
NOW, this is the part you are interested, this currency control (by selling dollars from our reserves to keep the dollar cheap for us) is working for US, not for the foreigners. AND I HAVE TO THANK YOU MAN, because I realized of this reading your stuff. We hear about inflation ALL THE TIME, but we don’t understand why! Because it doesn’t affect OUR economy, inflation goes along with our growing montly paychecks, so OUR buying capacity keeps it’s status (and grows little by little). BUT someone who comes to our country with dollars gets a smack in the face! haha! Now I get it!!
So there you have it, I’m sure you understand these currency variables much better than me, but I know what everybody knows, healthy emerging economies always works better for the locals in detriment of the foreigners. Our economy is growing at incredible rates and the economy is like a rollercoaster for us now. Just yesterday I bought a bottle of beer and costed me a couple more of “pesos” than last month, the store owner do this because he know I’m gonna pay it, and I’m too lazy to go to the store 20 blocks away that sell the same beer 1 dollar cheaper!!! The newspaper shows growing paychecks and they rise our sweet loved beer! the sons o a bitches! lol!
About Cristina, yeah we thought the same as you, but after Kirchner’s death, she really took control of the situation, she must be the strongest bitch ever man, I don’t know how she does it. She’s incredibly smart and she is doing a great job here. She just won the elections with a 54%, the best election ever here. But that’s not important, the important thing is the kind of people that vote for her, from the poor to the wealthiest people in the country. Landowners are making record profits, en bussisnes men are opening again their factories so they voted her, that’s a very good sign.
I’m very excited about this new combined program with Brasil. Cristina started a proyect a year ago with our universities and farm owners to build an “agricultural strategic plan” to rise the food production in combination with Brasil and took over the USA’s dominance in that market. It was presented a month ago with the new president of Brasil. International researchs are predicting a huge short suply of food, specially in china due to a recent announcement that the water reserves in the northeast started to dry. A recent research by an american farm group in china unveiled that the soy from USA has a very low quality in comparison with the soy harvest in Argentina and Brasil due to the climate, and chinese factories are rejecting the American soy, that’s good news for us! This is why I asked you about your opinion about the future of the commoditties market, we are playing strong in that area, in fact if the commodities sector crumbles we’re gonna be in serious problems, we are growing on those millions of tons of food right now man!
But seriously, all the info I’m gathering from the web shows the opposite, everyone is calling to invest in commodities specially food. Cristina started to travel to china in 05′ very frecuently, her secret is a very known Argentinian business man who went to china around 2000 and today he is the visible face and spokesman of the five more important chinese enterprises, that guy is like an unofficial embassador so Cristina is really well advised in that issue. As a matter of fact I bet my head that this guy is the key of every move this goverment did since 2005 in the commodities business, today everyone is swirling around that market and asia, but that guy got there first of all of them in 00′, more good news to us I say, hehe!
Reading your Antartica article I remembered the works being done to our Icebreaker, the “Admiral Irizar”, that ship since the decommission of the Russian icebreaker was the most important ship down there to supply our Antartic bases, now we have to drop them food using C-130’s, the burning of our Icebreaker in 07′ was a stab in our hearts. We had to decide what to do, to send it back to Finland for reparations or to buy a new one. What Crazy bitch Cristina did? She said, f*ct it, we are gonna rebuild it ourselves, god damn it! Everyone thought she was nuts, because though the fact that we once had good naval factories, we were not prepared for such a task of restoration proyect like that. An icebreaker is not just any kind of boat, you need the best of the best to repair that kind of ship destructed at a 70% degree, but the government invested the money and the naval factories were reopened, and we found out that we can do it. Now the reparations are really advanced the new twin engines are being installed and schedules points that the Icebreaker will be back in 2013 to Antartica. Man I wanted to cry when I saw those workers hugging the president when they presented a new oceanographic vessel and a restored submarine: http://youtu.be/8JLkpiKv0Sk
That is just a little example of what is going on here, man I could talk days, about the nuclear power station opening, the announcement of the sudamerican Bank to give loans to the region and stop depending on the IMF, the opening of city factories, the repatriation of our scientists, the satellite we builded, etc, etc, etc. We are very excited here, and I really appreciate your feedback man, I waited all my life to say something good about my country and now I’m all like: WOW LOOK AT US GUYS! LOOK HERE! hahaha! Dude thank you so much for reading all of this, If you want more info about some particular item just tell me. Thanks for the feedback again Marcello! Ok, ahora a seguir leyendo mas de tus viajes! lol
ESPECTACULAR PIBE! GREAT SITE MAN! I just can’t stop reading! I decided to leave a comment on this article cause I want to give you a message of hope, Buenos Aires is changing, well it’s more like Argentina is changing, and it’s changing for good man. I see you wrote this back in some hard and dangerous days, around Kirchner’s death, when the media and all of the political structure created an apocalyptic scenario. Today people’s economy is recovering, we’re having records on turism, we are making stuff and goods again like in the good ol’days. Our “presidentette” is doing great, all it’s going really good, we’re in the way to recover from 20 years of free falling. So, to all the travelers of the world come and take a look at our small continent down here! From the new world wonder tropical Iguazu falls, going through our old belle epoque ginourmous city, snowy mountains and glaciers to the end of the world and the Antarctic continent! Thanks for the time you put in doing these articles about our loved country man! Greetings from Buenos Aires, best city in the friggin world! lol!
after living on BA on the 90s and the early 2000s I have to say that may be what changed is your perpection of the city rather than the city itself.. of couse that the city is changin all the time (like all cities) but may be if you visit BA on the 2010 was in a “booming” moment for arg economy and now some dark clouds are arising over the argentinian economy.
I dont feel that is specially insecure, mostly compared to other times like 2000/2001/2 that probably was the worst time to visit..
I would say “visit before it came too expensive” because recent inflation make it “no-so-friendly” as it was to foreigners in terms of currency rates, even as you can sell your USD at 5.7 per ARS
Roberto… I lived in Buenos Aires in 2010 and nothing was booming about it or the economy. The city is falling apart, the gorgeous city that was once considered the Paris of the South has holes everywhere and nothing is maintained anywhere. There is garbage all over the streets and on garbage days the garbage just sits in front of people’s houses. I just went back to ARgentina and now they are changes dollars at black market rates much higher than the official government rate. inflation was still well over 20% when I was living there in 2010, Argentina is not a good place to be right now or in 2010… the country is moving in a very bad direction
Gerardo, vos me estas jodiendo? No podes decir que no hay gente que sigue buscando comida en la basura como en el 2004, lo podes ver en la mayoría de los barrios de Buenos Aires y en el conurbano.
Y con respecto a lo de la inflación, no puedo creer que te creas lo que te dice el INDEC y que digas que no afecta NUESTRA economía. Explicame como haces
N. Kirchner nos sacó de una jodida e hizo muchas cosas útiles para el país, pero Cristina? Como dijo Alberto Fernández hace unos días: ‘Cristina no profundizó el modelo, lo perforó’ y tiene razón.
Y que me decís de la corrupción de Cristina, lease, su hotel en el sur y su patrimonio que crece de manera inmensurable todos los años? De lo que hacen para ganar votos en provincias como Chaco y Formosa? De las restricciones extremas al dólar? De haber liberado a presos para que vayan a sus actos políticos? Del estado en el que se encuentra la educación pública?
Gracias.
*Explicame como haces para poder ir al supermercado todos los días cuando los productos aumentan y tu sueldo no.
Si no hubiese inflación en Argentina, los precios no tendrían necesidad de subir. Es simple.
Hay mucha inflacion en Argentina Juliana.. nunca dije que no
Gabrielle (The BSS Advanced Ensemble mascot) sends her love and best wihess to the whole Friendship touring group and especially to her brother, Alexander, and hopes you all of a wonderful time on the next leg of your journey in Buenos Airies!We showed Gabrielle on the globe last night where we live and where her brother and the entire Advanced Ensemble is in Argentina, and she was amazed at how far away it is! Even for an adult, it is hard to wrap one’s head around it! Wishing you all a safe journey. Have the times of your lives, and an amazing concert in Buenos Aires!Please wish Mary Cay a Happy Birthday from all of us here at home. She is an amazing woman and an inspiration to us all! Thank you for everything you do for our children and for us, Mary Cay. HAPPY BIRTHDAY!!!!
So can you Marcello name and list these successful foreigners you say you met in BsAs?
Do they pay taxes? Are they legal?
I have met quite a few but don’t know the details of them paying taxes, etc.
Also Marcello, someting I’d like to add to your post: I agree with it to start with, but there are somethings I should say, since I have a little more perspective, because I’ve know BsAs for a looooong time.
The barries at Casa Rosada have been there since 2001. No matter what kirchneristas say to you… of the country went through such a greeeeat period with the K’s, why the barriers were never removed? So I just add this because you say the barriers are there and because of that you think they are already preparing for a riot etc etc. No my friend, it is even worse. The barriers NEVER left during AND after 2001.
Also, the glass at Ezeiza has always been there and I do not believe a riot is the reason. Then I have to disagree with you, btut… what do i know”I just would not just a glass at an airport like that.
But the barricades at the Rosada, I can confirm: even through the glorious kirchnerista times, NEstor NEVER took them away. What was he affraid of?
Everyone who knows a bit about Argentnine knows that they WILL have a MEGA crisis, because this is what they have every 7 to 10 years. Throughout time, they have just managed to learn how to make it come very slowly, so that all appears to be accidental, but the CRISIS will come ALL the same. Tehre are loaaaads of desperate gringos that do not know what to do with the properties they bought in BsAs on the low… because even if they are much more expensive now… no one can buy them… not even foreigners, due to the crisis in Europe and the US. Plus, Cristina Kirchner has put restrictions on the dollar, and the properties in Argentina are bought and sold in dollars (long story), so MANY owner that bought in dollars will not accept pesos now when selling. Why would day?
Travel safe, Marcello.
PS: by no means this is a confrontational comment, and I think you can notice that. I just wanted to add that things are worse than you can imagine actually…
Thanks for the note HC… great information
the major change is how expensive it has become, the Oslo of South America.
A coffee is about three dollars. Food is about the same or more than Europe outside of Scandinavia or England. And long distance buses have skyrocketed.
This year, the inflation (not the official inflation but economists) say about 30-35%. Last year was no bargain either.
You see it in people’s faces, the stress of everyday life, moreso now than before, the cost of everything shooting up , the new clamp on foreign currency (Argentines cannot buy foreign currency) so they shell out credit cards in other countries where the A peso has a greatly diminished value.
it’s still a beautiful, if costly city. Be careful at all times, and you should be fine. Bring lots of money, it is not cheap.
A lot of places are changing and if anyone wants to visit them in their original splendour, they should hurry!
They’re building the canal across Nicaragua, which will ruin Lago de Managua…
Cuba is losing its original vintage feel as they’re opening up to the rest of the World.
I think you’re being a little dramatic. Well, I’ll assume you’re from the U.S., I heard Washington, D.C. is the most violent city in north america, even more than Mexico City. I could confirm that fact later on google. Anyway, I only know few countries: Argentina, Portugal, France, China (which I love) and Brazil. When I was in Paris with my mother, I was robbed by two girls in the subway, it was traumatic because I had never been robbed, not even in Brazil. Anyway, I’ve been watching ID, and I see the crimes committed by Americans in the U.S., I’ve never seen such cruelty in my life! They kill people in southern cities, rape and abduct children, torture women and hide their bodies in cellars. Seriously? I don’t understand why you blame Latinos while American serial killers kill random people just for fun.
Washington DC isn’t dangerous compared to cities like Chicago and even Detroit where it takes the police over an hour to arrive in any location. I will also let you know that while I do obtain US Citizenship I am not American. For the record there is not way that Washington DC is more dangerous than Mexico City.
Most Latino’s want to leave their countries simply because of the insecurity in the cities in which they live. There are a lot less petty crimes and things like rapes as well as torture on women in the United States than in cities in Latin America.